James Wharram Designs -Home of the self-build Catamaran.

Ruth Wharram has provided the following:
1) TANGAROA (also TAAROA) = the God of the Sea, the Great, Creative Spirit.
2) RONGO (also ORONGO) = his son
3) HINA = Moon Goddess
4) HINEMOA = a woman in mythology who achieved a tremendous swimming feat.
5) TANE = Man, Lover, God of productivity or just Man, Husband.
6) TANE NUI = Big Tane
7) RAKA = God of the Winds.
8) ARIKI = Chief
9) TEHINI = Darling
10) PAHI = Double Canoe
11) TIKI = neck pendant which Maoris wear
12) TIKIROA = Big TIKI
13) HITIA = Sunrise
14) WAKA = Canoe
15) MAUI = Magic
16) MOANA = Sea.
17) TOHORA = Dolphin
18) MANA = Power
19) HINE MOANA = Goddess of the Ocean.
20) ANUANUA = Rainbow.
21) RA = Sun
22) WAKAITI = Small Canoe
23) TOHUNGA = Priest
24) WAKARUA = 2 Canoes
25) AREOI = An age-old Tahitian fellowship of Artists and Seafarers
ITI = small - ROA = long, - NUI = big - RUA = 2
Any of the names can vary from island to island or are just slightly different. Also, remember, the pronunciation of the vowels is not like the English one but like Latin, Spanish, Italian, etc.

i.e.: a = like the English in 'far' e = ea as in 'leather' i = e as in 'me' or 'he' o = as in the English word 'awe' and u = as in the double oo in 'moon'

This is also good for people when they want to pronounce the names of our boats!!! Also, someone has asked if the name "NARAI" has to do with a particular Polynesian historical figure. In Polynesia, it is a woman's name, and she is a character from the book 'The singing Coral' by Sverre Holmsen, which I enjoyed very much.Hoping this is of interest, to all our builders and prospective builders.

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Is there a Wharram Owners Association with a regular magazine?

The Polynesian Catamaran Association (PCA) is a Wharram Catamaran Owners Association based in the UK with members world wide. Click this link to go to the PCA website. The PCA publishes the informative magazine "The Sea People" three times yearly. There are also Country or Regional Groups in many countries meeting local sailors' needs.

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What is "Two Girls, Two Catamarans"?

"Two Girls, Two Catamarans" by James Wharram is the story of the pioneering offshore multihull voyages that began James' design career. It was originally published in 1969 by Abelard-Shumann in the UK but was out of print for many years. There is now a new edition, published in Italy by Crociera Totale, in English. The book is in soft-back, measures 24x17cm, has 181pp and 112 b/w photographs, many of which previously unpublished. It is available from our online shop.

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Where can I buy a second hand Wharram Catamaran?

Firstly, have a look at the "Classifieds" on our web site. Then, a look at our Links page will provide connection to some reputable brokers.

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Why do you use the "Owl Eyes" as your logo?

James Wharram writes:

Around 1960 I came across a book (name and publisher long forgotten), where the writer used the appearance of the Owl/Eye symbol on rocks and pottery to trace an early Neolithic group spreading out by the coastal route from the Mediterranean up the coast of Europe, Ireland, Scotland and Denmark. In 1966, Thames and Hudson published a book by T.G.E. Powell called 'Prehistoric Art', where the 'Ocular' motives were noted, illustrated and its suggested origin to be in the Mediterranean. Since then, I have seen Cretan seals with this motive. Also Pallas Athena of Athens, the Goddess of Wisdom, is portrayed with an owl on her shoulder.

The Eye symbol is pre-Celtic by about 2-3,000 years. Many people do not realize that the Celts are quite newcomers in pre-literate (i.e. Roman) Northern Europe. Certainly, the time of the apparent sea-going people parallels the rise of the Megalithic monuments like Stonehenge, Callanish (before the Pyramids) on the Isle of Lewis, those of Brittany and many smaller monuments in Cornwall, Wales, Scotland etc. All of these megaliths have a little or very much astronomic alignments of such quality that, with just a smattering of it, you could use it for navigation on sea voyages. It is only in the last 5 years that the sea-going abilities of early Man are becoming accepted. Another matter of debate around the symbol is that the people who 'used' it were people who worshipped the Mother Goddess. So, the ideas around it are very protective. Certainly, as a symbol, it has brought me luck and has become a part of many people's lives.

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2. Website and Online Shop Questions

What is the delivery time for orders through the Online Shop?

We will process your order immediately we receive it, and the goods will be sent direct from James Wharram Designs by UK Post Air Mail. Although Air Mail is usually quite fast, we ask that you please allow 28 days for delivery before considering you may have a problem. If you have any concerns or questions about orders from our online shop, you can contact info@wharram.com

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What is your VAT registration number?

Our VAT registration number is: 341 8456 53

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I'm having trouble getting the online shop to work for me. What could be the problem?

The usual reasons for failing to access the Wharram Online Shop are:

Your browser version is insufficient. MS Internet Explorer and Netscape Navigator/Communicator version 4.0 or higher is required to access the shop;
Java is not enabled in your browser. You must go to your browser options and make sure that Java is enabled or the shop software can't work;
Cookies are not enabled in your browser - our Online Shop uses cookies to store the products that you wish to order. It does not store any personal user details in the cookies - only the contents of the shopping cart are stored. If you want to purchase from the Online Shop, you will need cookies activated in your web browser; or
Your firewall will not allow you to access certain data types or programs on remote hosts. This could also be occuring if your Internet Service Provider has a firewall system, or if you are trying to access a site through your employer's corporate firewall.

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3. Purchasing Questions

Where can I purchase sails suitable for my Wharram Catamaran, especially the TIKI Wingsails?

Recommended sailmaker:
Jeckells of Wroxham Limited,
Station Road,
Wroxham, NR12 8UT
UNITED KINGDOM.
Telephone: +41 (0)1603 782223
Fax: +41 (0)1603 784023
Email: sails@jeckells.co.uk
Website: http://www.jeckells.co.uk/

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4. Design Book Questions

What do I get in the Wharram Design Book?

The Wharram Design book contains over 67 pages outlining all the basic information about James Wharram's designs. It has sections covering why the boats are built as they are, the philosophy behind the designs, how they developed, building materials and methods, hull joining methods, interiors, rigs and of course, details of all the designs, including design data, basic layout diagrams and comments on how the boats sail. The Wharram Design Book is available from our online shop.

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5. Study Plan Questions

What do Study Plans contain?

Study Plans contain the information necessary to make a decision about which Wharram design will meet your sailing needs. The usual contents include a full materials list to allow you to cost the building of your boat, plan sheets detailing the layout and rig, as well as how the vessel "looks", photos of vessels (where appropriate) and magazine articles about sailing that particular design. The Melanesia Outrigger, a very simple design, does not have study plans. Remember, it is cheaper to buy a couple of different sets of Study Plans to compare boats than to buy a set of Building Plans for a design you decide doesn't meet your needs. Study Plans are available from our online shop.

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Can you send me materials lists without me buying the study plans?

No, they are part of our design information, and we make our living from selling study plans and building plans.

6. Building Plan Questions

Are the Building Plans Full Size?

Some parts of the Building Plans are! Generally, the building plans require you to loft (draw) the components onto the plywood. Full instructions on how to do this are supplied, and it is not a difficult task. Some small parts in some plans, usually the more recent TIKI or ETHNIC designs are shown full size and simply have to be traced. Building Plans are available from our online shop.

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How accurate are your estimated building cost figures, and what do they include?

The estimated building cost figures quoted on our price list are approximate costs to build a standard boat (that is, according to the plans supplied, including sails and rigging as per the plans), and they do not include the cost of labour, engines, fittings outside plan specifications or navigation equipment. Prices would be increased by upgrading the standard of fittings (eg stainless steel instead of galvanised fittings). The economics of bulk buying may reduce these figures, which are based, to the best of our ability, on "buy as you build" amounts obtained from the experiences of previous owner/builders in building the various designs.

The following figures give the approximate cost of building the various designs, using simple, adequate materials as specified in the plans. Costs include wooden masts and working rig, as well as basic interior fittings, but not navigation equipment or an engine. All costs are in £ and are excluding VAT (tax). Materials lists are supplied with the Study Plans to enable you to cost out materials with suppliers in your area.

Classic Designs		Coastal Trek/Tiki Designs		Pahi Designs
	£		£		£
Maui	2,500.00	Hitia 14	1,900.00	Areoi	15,000.00
Hinemoa	5,000.00	Hitia 17	2,800.00	Captain Cook	35,000.00
Tanenui Ply	9,500.00	Tiki 21	5,000.00	Gaia	52,000.00
Tangaroa Mk IV	25,000.00	Tiki 26	8,000.00
Raka	22,000.00	Tikiroa	8,000.00	Melanesia
Narai Mk I/II	32,000.00	Tiki 30	11,000.00	Sailing	200.00
Narai Mk IV	35,000.00	Tiki 31	12,000.00	Paddling	250.00
Ariki	35,000.00	Tiki 38	28,000.00
Tehini	40,000.00	Tiki 46	42,000.00

Table Updated October 2002

Materials lists are supplied with the Study Plans to enable you to cost our materials with suppliers in your area. Recommendations for suppliers of particular products are available from your regional agent, should you want them.

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Can I have a discount on my Building Plans?

I am sorry to disappoint you, but we are not able to offer you a discount. Part of the Wharram philosophy is to be able to build a boat as inexpensively as possible. We already take this into account when putting a price on our building plans, so there is no room for further discount. The plans are only a very small percentage cost of the total expense of building. I am sure once you have seen the plans you will appreciate just how many hours of work by our designers go into each drawing. The plans are very detailed and they are already priced as competitively as is possible. We receive many compliments from our builders on how much detail is in the plans, making them easy to follow.

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Can you provide duplicate sets of plans?

For builders who purchased the plans from us (or one of our agents): Provided you are a genuine builder and you purchased your plans from us in the first place, we can provide you with replacement plans. These will have the same number as your previous set. They do not entitle you to build a new boat. They are for your reference only. A guideline to prices: £25.00 per A1 sheet, £75.00 for a Tiki type booklet. Please check with the office by emailing info@wharram.com for current correct prices.

For owners who purchased the boat second hand: We can provide you with a set of plans for your second hand boat. If you know the boat number/sail number of your boat, your plans will have the same number as the original set. If you do not know the boat number/sail number of your boat, they will be marked "COPY". They do NOT entitle you to build a new boat. They are for your reference only. The cost of the copy plans is 50% of the current "new" price, but we may be prepared to negotiate this price for the larger designs. Please check with the office by emailing info@wharram.com for current correct prices.

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Can I exchange an old, but unused Building Plan for a set of plans for a bigger boat?

So long as you originally purchased the Building Plans from us, they are less than 3 years old, in good condition and you have not built a boat from them or copied them, you can return your plans to us and we will give you a 15% discount on your next building plan order.

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Can I build from a second hand set of plans and pay you a royalty?

No! The building plans are sold to amateur builders, giving them the right to build one craft only. The largest part of the cost of purchasing the plans is the royalties. In any case, when building a boat, the plans do tend to get a bit battered and might become incomplete. Building from a new set of plans also ensures that you have the latest updates of a design.

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Can I build more than one boat from one set of Plans?

Provided you are an AMATEUR builder, you may build a second boat from the same set of plans at a discount of 10% of the plan price, for the second sail number. If you want to build more than 2 boats, then we have to bring up the question of whether in fact you really are an AMATEUR builder or a PROFESSIONAL builder. The situation regarding PROFESSIONAL BUILDERS is different. We receive many enquiries about building our boats "professionally", but, for many different reasons, few work out. Generally, we ask that aspiring professional builders build one boat, which we will then check during construction and when the boat is finished. Subsequently, we need to be sure that you build using good quality materials, follow the plans, and deal ethically and equitably with your customers and us. Only after meeting this criteria can a builder become "approved" as one of our Professional Builders. In addition, each boat built as a commercial product also has to include a Builder's License Fee on top of the plan price.

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Do you have CAD drawings or digitalised building plans for your designs?

The reason we are not interested in digitalising the Plans is that it is good for the mental approach of the builder to measure, draw and cut out the parts of his/her boat himself; It makes him or her intimately part of the boat, it makes him THINK! Also it is not possible to cut out all parts in advance; many parts are scribed off the part-built boat, to make certain they fit. A builder working with pre-cut bulkheads etc. can still make small errors in assembling these parts, causing future parts to be of slightly different shape, if they were pre-cut they might not fit. Another point is to keep track of hundreds of pre-cut pieces, they would all have to be labelled very precisely, and even then it may be hard to find the bit you want, unless you have a cutter close at hand and only cut the bits required in the immediate future, something most people won't have. I also suspect that the use of a laser cutter doesn't come cheap. In fact, we find that cutting out the ply parts of a boat constitutes only a small amount of time, compared with the total building time.

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7. General Design Questions

What sort of motor should I install?

Motor installation is a matter for individual choice. While many builders have chosen to use outboard motors, others have chosen diesel inboards, or air cooled diesel or petrol motors on deck. Linkages vary from sail drive arrangements, through normal propellor shafts to hydraulic drives. The size ofthe motor to install depends on the characteristics of the motor, all up weight of the finished boat, choice of single or dual motor installation, and many other variables. Consequently, I recommend you discuss your ideas with a couple of different motor dealers when you have a general idea of where your preferences lie.

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What sort of plywood should I use?

Plywood can be either marine or structural grade, the most important point being that the glue bond must be a Type A (water and boil proof)bond. Structural ply usually comes with "C" or "D" grade faces, and you may have to order specially to get an "A" or "B" grade face on one side. Be aware that if you go the structural route, you may encounter large internal voids in the plywood when it is cut. These will have to be filled as you go. I would recommend that you use marine ply if you can afford it, as it is specially prepared for marine use, and will improve the resale value of your vessel.

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Are the flexible wooden beams you use strong enough?

Some of the harshest beam strength requirements we have found come from Australia, where the requirement is for the beam calculations of catamarans to be based on cantilever theory i.e. one hull clamped to a wall, the other hull cantilevered off the end of the cross beams. Using this theory, and a worst case loading of 30 passengers (more would, in our opinion endanger the boat, and be unmanageable by the crew), the calculations for my TIKI 30 design show that the beams are not only safe, but safe by a factor of more than three times the requirement.

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Why do you lash the beams of your recent designs, and is it safe?

For 35 years, the majority of Wharram designs have been designed in the two hull deck assembly as controlled flexible structures. In the early years I used rubber blocks on steel bolt mountings. In recent years, I have been using the high tensile strength and modern stretch characteristics of modern ropes.

Using this method of lashing beams to the hull, fixed high stress points are reduced, the lashings show visible signs under stress and act as replaceable stress members and stress gauges. Under actual working conditions the rope lashings have been shown to act precisely in this way, and have proven to be easy to maintain and replace when required.

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Can I use timber other than that specified in the plan?

Yes! Timber availability and costs may dictate the use of different timbers from those specified in the plan. I can only advise you to use common sense in choosing timber, and attempt to match the characteristics called for in the plans. There are many publications which will help you with your choice. In Australia, for example, a good guide to suitable timber was to be found in Australian Standard 1738 - 1975 titled "Timber for Marine Craft". Our latest advice on this standard is that it was withdrawn in March 1997 (apparently without replacement!). Copies of withdrawn standards are still available from SAI Global, and it is worth a look if you can get a copy.

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Can you give me a CE number?

The situation regarding CE marking in the EU is as follows:

Amateur built boats do not need to pass RCD (Recreational Craft Directive) regulations if the boat is not sold in the first 5 years. So if you are building as an amateur (and remember our Plans are only available to amateurs, Professional builders need to negotiate a builders licence with us) you in theory need not be bothered by the RCD.

If you do wish to have your boat CE marked you have to work through a 'Notified body' in your country that will require quite a large payment for doing this. However boats under 12m length can be self assessed but will need their Stability characteristics assessed by a Notified body.

Remember it is not possible to have a set of Plans CE marked as the CE marking is on materials used etc., not just on design.

To self assess your boat you will need to get hold of a copy of the RCD, in your case you should get one that is applicable in your country.

If you do go ahead with getting your boat(s) RCD certificated we are able to supply the Stability calculations for the designs. This information is correct to the best of our knowledge as at September 2003, but you should confirm current details with authorities in your country, rather than relying on this.

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Why is the cross-section of your designs V-shaped?

This cross-section allows you to sail to windward without dagger boards or other appendages; it gives a very easy motion at sea (does not pound so much); and it makes the hulls easy to build. The flares and overhangs give great seaworthiness. More information about our design philosophy, and an overview of the plans that are available is in the Wharram Design Book. The Wharram Design Book is available from our online shop.

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How big are your bunks?

James is a slim 1.88m and on the Tiki 30', 38' and 46' likes to have a bunk width of 1.22m. The bunk beds on our designs can be narrower than the 1.55m bed-width in modern double beds - however you sleep close to the side of the boat and do not need the edging around the bed that you get in a house bed. Having said this, a lot will depend on how good a sleeper you are!

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Do your designs have standing headroom?

All multihulls are 'shallow draft vessels', and like dories, scows and other shallow draft vessels, you do not get full standing headroom until about a 36-ft design. Some designers raise the freeboard of the design at about 25 foot to get full standing headroom in a small shallow craft, but it does spoil the windward sailing quality of the design, particularly in winds of Force 4 and upwards.

Sailors and designers used to say: "the only place you need standing headroom is where you pull your trousers up". James is 6ft 2in (1.88m) tall so we arrange the headroom in the Gaia around 6'3". A French friend and builder of a TIKI 46, Bertrand Fercot, is 6'6" tall, and he has raised his cabin height for his physical comfort, though we think a combination of raising the cabin height and dropping the floor would have looked better. One of the reasons behind developing the 'Flexi-space' for the PAHI 63 is to reduce standing space to the minimum and see the interior of the boat as a comfortable tent height. James says, "My biggest height problem is head banging, which I get also on doors and in the older cottages in Britain. As the minimum bunk size I use always 6'6", though wherever possible I prefer longer bunk space of 7' and sometimes more."

Of course, for more room, you can put a Bimimi cover over the large hull entry hatches. At 1.88m, the headroom of the bigger boats is sufficiently high for James to move around standing upright.

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Which of your designs are ocean going?

All James' models, particularly in the Tiki range, from 21' are ocean-going vessels. (A Tiki 21 did in fact sail around the world, but we wouldn't recommend this as standard practice!). Tiki 26's have made several trans Atlantic and Pacific voyages as have all our larger designs.

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What do you recommend as a nice "family" cruising boat?

James Wharram recently wrote: "The easiest boat to build for making long distance passages with your wife and two children, would be the Tiki 38. It is a lovely boat, it has a bathroom and a shower. It is a development of the professionally built (by us, "Wharram Built", a few years ago) Tiki 36. My Japanese friend who owns one is berthed with us at Corfu and it really is a nice boat. The next boat in the range would be a Pahi 42. I sailed aboard one of my customer's ones from Scotland to Iceland a few years ago. It is a tough reliable boat. The ideal large family boat is the Tiki 46. Two of my friends have just built one and are now on their way across the Atlantic, but it is a lot of work - it took them 2 - 3 years to build the boat"

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I am looking for a catamaran about the size of a small dinghy - why don't you have a design smaller than 14 ft?

The hulls of a catamaran are very slim in order to get the advantage of more speed than a monohull. Slim hulls have a limited buoyancy and in practice it is found that hulls less than 14ft long tend to lack the buoyancy to carry the occupants. We did once build a 10ft catamaran which definitely lacked buoyancy, then we had a 12ft design that was just OK, but had a tendency to bury its lee bow due to lack of buoyancy. You will notice that there are hardly any catamaran designs on the market less than 14ft long, for the reason given above. Monohull dinghies can be shorter as they are wide with a lot of buoyancy, the result however is a boat that is a lot slower than a catamaran. A 14ft catamaran will only use the amount of building material, and hence have the cost and weight, of a much smaller monohull dinghy. This way you will have a faster, bigger and more seaworthy boat for the same cost. The choice is yours!

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What designs would be good for North Atlantic Conditions?

We have several boats which can weather the North Atlantic and which one you choose depends on how much money you have and how cheap the building materials are where you live. A Pahi 42 (Captain Cook) regularly sails in the stormy waters around the Western Isles of Scotland and in 1999 James and Hanneke sailed from Soctland to the Faroes and Iceland on a Pahi 42'design.

The original Tehini, James' previous "personal boat" for several years, is a very simple, tough boat and has made at least three North Atlantic crossings but lacks the sophistication of accommodation of our later designs, such as the TIKI 46, another suitable choice but a design which contains much more material and work.

The new Islander 55' design (which is James' present dream boat) Would also be suitable. However, it is for professional building only at Andy Smith Boatworks, or other approved builders.

Most importantly, whichever design you choose will DEFINITELY need insulating for Northern waters.

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I want to build a 30-footer - which designs would be good?

The Tiki 30, Tiki 31 and Pahi 31 are all easy to build, and it is a matter of personal preference in layout and looks to choose your preferred design. All three designs, if well build, are strong enough to sail the oceans. You may want to order study plans to have a closer look at the designs (Study Plans are available from our Online Shop), and read the articles as to what people have to say about them. If you are hesitating between these three designs, your best option would be to talk to people who have built and sailed them, and if possible try to sail on these boats.

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Do you have a design for a Proa?

Not at the moment! I have met more than one Western Proa builder. The problem is, that they look at the proa through Western eyes. I think that before you can adopt Pacific canoe form craft for western use, you must start at the beginning, and build as close as you can to the original craft. Having mastered the original principles, you can then start adapting it to Western needs. This is what we are doing with our new ethnic range of designs, with this year the Tahiti Wayfarer and its outrigger consort.

There is something about Proa's that sends western sailors slightly crazy. We built a 30-foot Proa for the 1979 race around Britain, sailed it 500 miles test sail, put a bigger sail on to "really go", and capsized it. Since then, I have seen big "French Proa's" which were really more like catamarans with one hull bigger than the other. It should be correctly called a Drua, the Fijian name for such a craft built in sizes of up to 100 feet.

At the moment, we are experimenting on the use of the Outrigger Canoe, which has a definite bow and stern. We are working step-by-step forward, then when we understand the basic elements of outrigger design, we shall take up experimenting with Proa design again. Our first designs will be as close to original Pacific designs as we can get, because the problem of adapting Pacific canoe form designs for Westerners' use, is that Westerners sit on chairs with legs, by tables with legs, sleep on beds with legs, and they carry unconsciously these concepts into making Western habitable Proa designs.

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Have you ever built Trimarans?

Many years ago, James did build a Tri for the Round Britain Race. He was never happy with the design and has not designed one since.

8. General Building Questions

How do you turn the hulls over?

If you have space to the side and sufficient people, you may wish to tip the hull sideways on supports such as mattresses or tyres, then tip the hulls the right way up.

If you do not have space sideways, but roof beams that will support the weight of the hulls, you could rig two blocks, then run a continuous loop around the hull over the bulkheads, turning the hull inside these loops. I have also seen this done using a delivery truck with one of those small unloading cranes to support the weight rather than roof beams.

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Which plywood should I use for building?

Suitable plywood can be either marine or structural grade, the most important point being that the glue bond must be a Type A (water and boil proof) bond. You can use top grade hardwood marine plywood, like Bruynzeel 'Hechthout' or other kite marked marine plywoods to BS 1088 or a similar standard, such as Australia's AS2272 standard. Because the boat is sheathed and coated in epoxy, a lower grade hardwood plywood (Okoume B/BB glued with exterior (Type A) grade glue) is also suitable. Bruynzeel make such plywood. Another reliable WBP (Water and Boil Proof) plywood is made in Israel with imported wood. This plywood is approximately 30% cheaper than 'Hechthout'. There are even cheaper hardwood WBP plywoods on the market, generally made in the Asia/Pacific area. One example is "Meranti" or "Pacific Maple" plywood from Indonesia. However, you should also consider the weight of the different types of plywood, as a cheaper but considerably heavier plywood may not be such a bargain after all! In Europe a beautiful plywood is Baltic Pine, it has a lovely surface grain and has thin veneers (5 veneers for 6mm ply for example) but it is quite expensive. An Australian plywood is Hoop Pine which is very suitable for use with glass and epoxy.

Structural ply usually comes with "C" or "D" grade faces, and you may have to order specially to get an "A" or "B" grade face on one side. Be aware that if you go the structural route, you may encounter large internal voids in the plywood when it is cut. These will have to be filled as you go. I would recommend that you use marine ply if you can afford it, as it is specially prepared for marine use, and will improve the resale value of your vessel.

Whichever ply you choose, try to source a ply which has been sustainably grown, to prevent the reckless wholesale destruction of tropical hardwood forests.

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9. Design Specific Questions

CLASSIC DESIGNS

Can I lash the beams on my Classic design, rather than using fixed fastenings?

What you need is Plan Sheet O7, 'Beamlashings for Classic Designs'. This is an optional drawing, not part of the plans, intended for builders who wish to go for lashed beams rather than the standard attachment method. These plans are available from our Online Shop in the Building Plans/Classic Designs Section.

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I have a problem tacking the Classic designs. Can you help, please?

An important factor towards tacking and windward performance is of course the quality of your sails. Baggy sails just don't give good performance. Another factor might be the technique you use. Our catamarans, with their long keels, don't spin round (like a dinghy!), but need to be sailed around.

make sure you have a reasonable speed
pull sails in tight before tacking
do not oversteer, but keep the boat moving
back the jib
if you have a ketch, pull the mizzen over to windward just before tacking to act as a wind rudder.

A third factor contributing to poor tacking of the Classic Designs might be the rudder streamlining (such as big gap between rudder and hull, or lumpy rudder fittings) If you could improve on this it would make the boat sail considerably better.

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Are there any design improvements for the Classic designs which will use some of the nice Tiki design features?

There is a Design Improvements package, based on the Tiki 38 centre deck layout, which is suitable for use non the Tangaroa MKIV, Raka, Narai, Oro and Ariki It offers small deck pod, boarding ramp, engine boxes to fit Yamaha 4 stroke 9.9hp outboards. It also shows alternative fixing of slatted decks and the main mast step.

There is also a larger Design Improvements package which includes information for Tiki style beams for the Tangaroa MKIV and Raka. It also comes with a drawing showing how to lash the beams to the hulls.

These plans are available from our Online Shop in the Building Plans/Classic Designs Section

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ARIKI

Can you use a Winsail rig on the Ariki?

It is possible to use the Tiki 46 Wing Sail Rig on the Ariki. Contact our office at info@wharram.com for plan sheet prices.

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HINEMOA

Is there a French approbation for the Hinemoa?

The Hinemoa has been approved for 4th category (CNSNP no 2805).

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Can the Hinemoa use the TIKI wingsail rig?

Yes, it is possible to substitute the original rig-options with the simple Wingsail as used on the Tiki 21.

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MAUI

Why is the MAUI design not shown online or in the Design Book?

We no longer have the MAUI as a stock design, which is why it is not online, or in the Design Book. It has been superceded by a number of our newer designs.

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NARAI MARK I & II

Why is the NARAI MARK I & II design not shown online or in the Design Book?

We no longer have the NARAI MARK I & II as a stock design, which is why it is not online, or in the Design Book. It has been superceded by the NARAI MARK IV design.

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NARAI MARK IV

What is the original mast rake of the Narai Mark IV?

The original mast-rake for the Narai Mk IV is 5 degrees (1:12).

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There is a discrepancy between the measurements of bulkheads 1/6 on sheets 1 and 2. Can you explain this, please?

The lines drawing bulkhead 1 and 6 includes the beam trough on top of the actual bulkhead, sheet 2 is only the ply under those fore and aft beam troughs. Look at the side view of the boat on sheet 2.

Cut your ply as indicated in the measurements on sheet 2 . DO NOT take 7/8 inch off - that has already been done in the plan. That is why it is less than the dimensions on sheet 1.

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Can I widen the beams of the Narai Mk IV?

The Narai Mk IV can be widened. To do this safely the crossbeams would need to be made somewhat deeper in cross-section, to carry the extra strain. You could use the beam design for the Tiki 46, these beams have a slightly different cross-section and are therefore, though bigger, not much heavier.(These beams can still be mounted to the hulls exactly the same as the original beams, the covers over the beam-trough will need to be made slightly higher to allow for the greater beam depth). If you would like to buy this beam design, contact our office at info@wharram.com for plan sheet prices.

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Can I build a deck pod for the Narai Mk IV?

It is possible to build a sheltered cockpit/deckpod for the Narai. We have the designs of the Tiki 38 and Tiki 46 deckpods that we can offer you for sale if you would like. They would have to be adjusted to the available space but may offer you some structural ideas. Otherwise you can design your own deckpod inspired by the designs in existence. Have a good look at any photos on this website or order a Design Book which will show you what the deckpods look like. The Wharram Design Book is available from our online shop.

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ORO

Why is the ORO design not shown online or in the Design Book?

We no longer sell the Oro design. She was 46' long, her layout was very basic and Spartan - rather like a slightly longer Narai Mk I. Her Plans were drawn in the 1960s and are as Spartan as the boat, which was the reason for us withdrawing them.

Her place was first of all taken by the Narai Mk IV in the early 70s. This design gives more accommodation on a shorter length then the Oro. We now have the Tiki 46 design, which incorporates all our new ideas and construction methods and gives a lot more boat for a given length. We know that there are still people attracted by the Oro's simplicity, but at this day and age of high materials cost, most decide to build a boat that makes better use of the same quantity of materials. (Before you ask, we can not modify the Oro design to incorporate our new ideas, like lashed beams, different rig, deckpod etc., as this involves too much work and would only create a hybrid design!)

If you are really only attracted by the Classic designs, maybe you should look at the Ariki or Tehini. There are updates available with the Tehini Plans that increase her accommodation.

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The Oro rudders are small and she turns with difficulty. Can anything be done to improve this?

We think that it would be best to just build new rudders. We suggest that you get the drawings for the Tehini rudders. These are slightly bigger than the Oro rudders, but perhaps as important, they show good details of fairing. With steering and tacking the boat, it is not just the rudder size that is important. The shape and fairing of the skeg, the gap between the skeg and the rudder, and the fairing of the rudder all play a role.Contact our office at info@wharram.com for plan sheet prices.

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RAKA

Are there any design improvements available for the RAKA?

There are two different sets of Design Improvement Plans for the RAKA. The first package is based on the Tiki 38 centre deck layout. It offers small deck pod, boarding ramp, engine boxes to fit Yamaha 4 stroke 9.9 hp outboards. It shows alternative fixing of slatted decks and the main mast step. The second package offers small deck pod, boarding ramp, engine boxes to fit Yamaha 4 stroke 9.9 hp outboards. It also shows alternative fixing of slatted decks and the main mast step and includes information for Tiki style beams for the Tangaroa MK lV and Raka. It also comes with a drawing showing how to lash the beam to the hulls. These plans are available from our Online Shop in the Building Plans/Classic Designs Section

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TANE

Why is the TANE design not shown online or in the Design Book

We no longer have the TANE as a stock design, which is why it is not online, or in the Design Book. It has been superceded by the TANE NUI designs.

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TANE NUI

Can you provide me with a sail plan for the Tane Nui?

Yes, we can send you a sail plan for the Tane Nui. Email our office at info@wharram.com for current prices for the plan sheet.

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Can I make a wheelhouse on the Tane Nui?

The Tane Nui is too small a craft to have a wheelhouse!

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TANGAROA MARK IV

Do you have a Wingsail rig which can be used on a Tangaroa Mk IV?

We have a single masted version of the wingsail rig which can be fitted to the Tangaroa MKIV but only if you have the sloop rig. Email our office at info@wharram.com for current prices for the plan sheet. We do not have any drawings for the standard (two masted) version of the Tangaroa MKIV but it is something we plan to do in the future - no time frame, just when we are able!

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TEHINI

Can the Tehini be fitted with a wingsail?

Yes the Tehini could be fitted with the wingsail rig. It would be an adaption of the Tiki 46 wingsail rig.

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What is the gross tonnage for a Tehini (needed for registration)?

The Gross Tonnage is 13,00 tons (36.79 cubic metres). The Register Tonnage is the same.

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PAHI DESIGNS

AREOI

If I don't fit daggerboards to my Areoi, can I leave out bulkhead 3 and increase bulkhead 2?

If you don't use daggerboards you can indeed leave out bulkhead 3 and increase bulkhead 2 to a full bulkhead, the same as bulkhead 9 in the stern.

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Can I omit the central bolts in the beams of the Pahi 31?

Pahi 31 building plan sheet 11A 'Crossbeams for increased overall beam' give, besides measurements for increased beam width (which you may or may not wish to make) the details of how the bolts are used differently, in a slot in the beam, to keep the hulls parallel, whilst the beam rocks on pads on either gunnel. One cannot eliminate the bolts completely or they would have to be replaced by a large number of wooden location blocks to keep the hulls parallel. The method shown on sheet 11A is most effective.

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Can I remove one of the Pahi 31's main crossbeams - the one aft of the cockpit?

James says:
I think removing the 3rd beam on the Pahi 31 is possible. The Tiki 38 has only 3 main beams so I think the Pahi 31 should be OK like that too. She is a very strong boat. However there is an other possibiliy to improve cockpit size, but this would mean changing to a different rig which you may not wish to do. If one uses the Tiki Style Wingsail Rig (now available for the Pahi 31) then the short mast beam can be removed giving a lot more clear deckspace.

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What do you recommend as the best method of fitting the traveller to the hull of the Pahi31?

The best way to decide on the fitting position to to bi-sect the corner of the sail and then come 10 degrees further down - this is the optimum position. If this comes too far forward to your netting then you can make a fitting like the inner forestay or you could put a U bolt through the sheer stringer. We suggest you hoist the sail first and try it out before drilling any holes!

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What do you recommend as the best method of fitting mooring cleats to the Pahi31?

Mooring cleats can be either fitted on the crossbeams, which are very strong, or you can glue reinforcing pads under the decks in the location you would like to fit mooring cleats.

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Is it possible to fit the inner shroud plates to the outside of the hull on the Areoi?

Yes, it is possible to fit the inner shroud plates to the outside of the hull, but remember this could interfere with carrying a large genoa/drifter. If it is not already too late for you to make this change, have you thought of using the Tiki type wingsail rig? There is now a drawing available for this for the Pahi 31. This rig also allows you to omit the short mastbeam and therefore gives more space to the cockpit. Contact our office at info@wharram.com for plan sheet prices.

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On the Areoi, is it possible to have double backstays fixed in the same position rather than the single backstay with double harness?

It should be possible to fit twin backstays. The thing to watch is if any part of the mainsail can catch on them.

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Can you put the TIKI wingsail rig on the Areoi?

It is possible to put the Tiki/Wingsail rig on the Pahi 31 and in fact we like the Pahi 31 with this rig very much. On this rig the mast is placed 1 foot in front of beam 2, on a mast case that spans beams 1 and 2. The central cross beam is omitted, giving you the opportunity to make a bigger cockpit. If yopu are refitting, it does involve changing the mast and rigging but this is something that you may wish to consider. The Tiki rig forestay fits to the existing forestay bridle of the Pahi 31. Contact our office at info@wharram.com for plan sheet prices.

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Can I build a deck pod for the Areoi?

We recommend the Tiki 30 deckpod as the best solution for you. It would not be difficult to adapt this to your Pahi 31. Contact our office at info@wharram.com for plan sheet prices.

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CAPTAIN COOK

Is there a French approbation for the Pahi 42?

The Pahi 42 has been approved for the 1st Category (CNSNP no 22 PC).

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The important thing with the sheaves is:

they have to be wide enough to take 10mm dia. halyards easily, i.e. at least 15mm wide;
they have to fit the slot in the mast, the diameter of the sheaves is not that critical, but should not be too small, i.e. 50mm minimum;
I like tufnol as a material for sheaves, but glass filled nylon will also be fine; and
go for something that is available and not too expensive - one can even cannibalise old blocks for their sheaves.

I'm afraid that replacing the top laminations of the beams on your Captain Cook with plywood (even very high quality plywood) is not a good idea. The reason is that plywood, with half the wood in it having the grain crosswise, has not got the tensile strength of solid timber. It is excellent when used as the web in the beam where it under sheer stresses, but not as top (or bottom) layer. Here Douglas Fir/Oregon Pine is one of the best timbers as it has excellent tensile and compression strength and is also very good in torsion, which is one of the forces exerted on the cross beams. So my advice is to replace the rotted timber with new laminations of Douglas Fir timber. Another timber suitable would be Larch.

We glassed the tops of our cross beams (on Spirit of Gaia) with epoxy resin and so far, after 10 years we have had no rot problems, but then we have kept the boat mainly in warm, and relatively dry climates. When a boat is kept in the much wetter Northern European climate I think rot is a more frequent problem.

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Can you comment on the windward performance of the Pahi 42?

The windward performance of the Pahi 42, like that of all sailboats, depends on the quality of the sails, hull loading and sea condition. Peter Richardson's Pahi 42, in which he took us from Scotland to Iceland in 1998, sailed extremely well on all courses, in all seas.

A few years ago, sailing close to windward in the Canaries from Gomera to Palma with our 63-ft Gaia, I tried to catch up with a Swiss Pahi 42 in a light to moderate wind and failed. Our Gaia was sailing 42 to 44 degrees of the true wind.

The bow daggerboards in the Pahi 42, like the bow centreboards in the Pahi 63 are for lightly loaded, fast sailing to windward. If the boat is moderately or heavily loaded, these boards are not needed.

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Why is the Sail/Displacement ratio of the Pahi 42 less than that of the Tiki 46?

James says:

"With reference to Bruce Numbers (similar to Sail/Displacement Ratios): Multihulls with a standard Bermudan style rig and a high Bruce Number are less stable and and have a higher capsizing potential.

The PAHI 42 rig, whilst having a lower Centre of Effort than most Bermudan rigs by bringing the tack almost down to the deck (something now followed by other racing craft), it still is a Bermudan configuration. The twin masted 'TIKI' rig allows one to carry more sail than the Bermudan rig, hence a higher Bruce Number, without raising its capsizing potential.

However, I sailed on Peter Richardson's PAHI 42 from Scotland to Iceland in 1999. It is a very nippy craft. Peter Richardson expects speeds of 10-12 knots from it regularly, but he is a tough, high quality sailor, and the boat is built to specification. He does use his Genoa, shown in the Plans, in light winds, which gives him 800sqft of sail area."

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Can I put a Schooner rig on the Pahi 42?

We do not think that the schooner rig is very suitable for the Pahi 42, it would be quite 'crowded' on this design. However, if you are keen on the schooner rig, but the Pahi 63 is too large, perhaps you should look at the Pahi 52.

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PAHI 52

Can I get a Pahi 52 built to EU Certification/RCD standards?

James and Hanneke are discussing with Seascape, our professional builders in Phuket, Thailand the possibility of working to the RCD standards. If this is difficult for them, you can still get a boat certificated when you import it into Europe. As the boats built in Thailand are at a very reasonable cost, the extra cost of getting it certificated should not be a problem.

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GAIA

Can you describe the fitting the halyard strops, shrouds and forestay loops on the Pahi 63?

The forestays together with the halyard strops go into position first. It isn't really important, but check you don't get chafe by placing them wrongly. The halyard strops are best if trapped under the shrouds. We have spare halyards on the aft mast at the top, on a rope strop and one at the shroud position. This one gets often used to hoist the outboard engines out of their boxes. We attach our 6-part purchase block on the end of the halyard and then position the halyard over the hole with some spare line to the shrouds. This works very well and you can either hoist the engine up on deck or lower in into a dinghy positioned underneath the deck. For hoisting people to the top of the mast we always use the peak lanyard. Remember to fit some flag halyards. Attach the block with a lashing to a shroud loop.

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On the Pahi 63, how are the lashings attached to the deadeyes/chainplates?

The lanyards are started through the top hole on the hull (i.e. the narrow end), with a stopper (figure of 8) knot in the end of the Lanyard. Feed the lanyard through all the holes and end up with the tail pulling upwards. You then tie this tail off on the standing part of the shroud, just above the deadeye, with a number of half hitches. Tuck the end under somewhere to stop things getting undone.

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What can you tell me about the Blocks and Halyards on the Pahi 63?

All the halyards are 10mm rope, this has proven sufficient in all the 10 years for sailing Spirit of Gaia.

We tend to specify slightly oversize blocks, particularly in important places like at the top of the mast. Hencethe biggest blocks are meant for fitting at the top of the mast, the slightly smaller ones for fitting to the gaffs.

Each halyard for the Gaff mains is 4 part purchase, i.e. the halyard is 4 times the length of the mast. This means double blocks at the top of the mast.

The peak halyard starts tied to the head of the gaff - through the double block at the head of the mast - through a single block halfway along the gaff - back to the double block and down the sail sleeve.

The throat halyard starts at the gaff throat at the becket of a single block - up to a double block on the mast (half way up the thinner part of the mast) - down through the block at the throat - back through the double block and down the sail sleeve.

Both halyards then pass through a double block at the base of the mast to lead them horizontally for easy pulling.

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How are the 2 mainsails (plus gaff) raised and lowered on Gaia?

Hanneke says:

"We normally never use a winch, as it is much quicker without, but it does take at least 2 people to pull up a sail (with the horizontal pull on the halyards you can get a large crew all pulling together, good to keep the charter guests busy). Depending on the weight of your sails it can be quite heavy once the sail is almost up.

You must always hoist the sail with the gaff kept horizontal, once it gets peaked up you can no longer hoist it. Pull until the foot of the sail is at the right height up the mast (about 30 -40cm above the deckpod), cleat the throat halyard and peak up the sail until all creases disappear. Then pull on the downhaul until the sail sleeve is smooth. (Slacken the downhaul a little when sailing before the wind).

These sails can be hoisted and lowered with a following wind. We attach a thin line to the head of the gaff, other end tied to one of the reef cringles on the leech (for the foresail), with which we can control the head of the gaff and have it clear the shrouds when hoisting."

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COASTAL TREK DESIGNS

What are the correct mast dimensions for the TIKI range of catamarans?

The outside diameter of the aluminium mast should always be the same as the wooden mast. Otherwise gaff dimensions need to be changed.

Design	Diameter		Wall - Wood		Wall - Aluminium
	inch	mm	inch	mm	inch	mm
Tiki 21	4	102	¾	19	1/8	3.5
Tiki 26	5	127	¾	19	1/8	3.5
Tiki 31	5	127	¾	19	1/8	3.5
Tiki 30	5 ½	140	1	25	1/8 or 5/32	3.5 or 4
Tiki 38	5 ½	140	1	25	1/8 or 5/32	3.5 or 4
Tiki 46	7 5/8	194	1 ¼	32	3/16 - ¼	5 - 6

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HITIA 17

Is it possible to convert the Hitia 17 Sprit Rig to a Wingsail Rig?

Quite a few people have converted the Spritsail rig into the Tiki gaff rig. This is actually only a small change as the shape and cut of the Mainsail doesn't actually change. They have just replaced the sprit with a gaff. Personally James prefers the sprit rig on this boat. She is small enough that the sprit is light and easy to handle. The spritrig has the advantage that you can brail the sail ("geien") - very good when sailing up to a beach and needing to take off sail quickly. For the gaff rig there is also the complication that you need a longer mast and you need two halyards to hoist the sail.

If you already have a sail, we advise you to use exactly the same sail shape for the gaff main as for the sprit main. You only need to add a pocket along the top edge of the sail for the gaff. In order to be able to fit the halyard blocks high enough to peak the gaff, the mast needs to be longer, so you will have to fit an extension to the mast. This extension can be thinner than the main part of the mast, i.e. a solid piece of spar the inside diameter of the hollow mast, that is glued into the top of the mast. A 2ft (60cm) extension would be about right. I suggest you draw it to scale on your sail plan, so you can see for yourself. I think the extension should be a minimum of 2" in diameter.

If you don't have the sail yet, Jeckells have made a number of Hitia 17 sails for use with a gaff. These plans are available from our online shop in the Building Plans/Coastal Trek-Tiki Designs Section

TIKI 21

I have problems tacking the Tiki 21. Can you help, please?

To tack the Tiki 21, you need to back the staysail, this technique is shown in the back of your building instructions book of the Plans. Do you do this?

If your boat has too much weatherhelm in strong winds the mast should be more upright, if you have neutral or leehelm is should be raked more.

I think a tacking problem can also be more to do with technique. Before a tack, sail as close to the wind as possible, with sails sheeted in tight, then steer into the wind leaving all sheets cleated, but don't over steer. When the wind catches the other side of the staysail let it back and push the bows through the wind. When the sail starts to turn the boat, start straightening up the tillers. Once you are about 20 degrees the other side of the wind and the mainsail just tries to fill, you cast off the staysail sheet and quickly sheet it in on the new tack (have the new sheet pulled in as much as possible before casting off the old one, that way the manoeuvre goes quick and you don't have to pull long and hard to get the sail back in). It is all a question of careful timing!

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Is there a French approbation for the Tiki 21?

The Tiki 21 is approved for the 4th Category (CNSNP no 2499)

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Is there an error in the measurements for the side-panel on Dimension Sheet 1 of the TIKI 21 Building Plans?

The discrepancy you noticed between the measurements on the Tiki 21 side-panels is not actually a mistake. Due to the necessity to place the ply joints at equal distance forward of Bulkhead 4 and aft of Bulkhead 2, plus the fact that a sheet of ply is 8' long, we run 1/2" short of plywood at the tip of the bow. This is not a problem, as it constitutes a minute piece of missing ply that can easily be filled with some epoxy filler while you are using filler there anyway. So draw your ply side-panel to the given measurements, but place the tip of the bow 1/2" over the edge of the plywood and draw the angled stem to this virtual point.

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TIKI 26

Is there a French approbation for the Tiki 26?

The number for the Tiki 26 is: 3rd Cat. (CNSNP No. 44PC).

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Is the Tiki 26 available in GRP?

A few Tiki 26's were built in GRP but sadly the chap who undertook the production is no longer in business. The good news is that James and Hanneke have now designed the Tiki 8 Metre (near enough 26 feet, but called the 8m to denote the difference). They feel it is better than the previous Tiki 26.

You can find out more about the TIKI 8M on our Professionally Built Boat Page

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TIKI 8 Metre

How is the Tiki 8m different from the Tiki 26?

The main differences are, that the Tiki 8m:

is designed for construction in GRP in kit form, for finishing off by the owner at various levels;
will NOT be available to build in ply;
has greater hull freeboard;
cabin is 30cm longer giving a better sitting headroom; and
has a super spray shelter for sailing which doubles up as an anchor shelter/tent.

You can find out more about the TIKI 8M on our Professionally Built Boat Page

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TIKIROA 26 (Pahi 26)

Can I build an interior into the Tikiroa?

The interior of the Pahi 26 design is meant to be flexispace, which no doubt you have read about in our Design Book. The Pahi 26 interior is really too small to build in an "interior". What you can do is make canvas wall bags to keep your possessions in. You can make a simple shelf for a cooker, or a cooking box into which a small cooker fits, plus other cooking equipment. This box can then be placed where most convenient at the time, which may sometimes be on deck (in deck tent).

There really isn't room for a fitted toilet. Most people treat the Pahi 26 like a tent for camping. They use a bucket as a toilet, or use a portable chemical toilet. You can make a special hole in one of the floor sections to fit such a bucket, if required.

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TIKI 30

Are the cockpit drain holes on the Tiki 30 sufficient?

Yes, we believe they are. If you are concerned about the drain holes in the Tiki 30 cockpit, you can always increase the number of them, particularly if you intend to do serious offshore sailing. But do remember the engine well is also a huge drain-hole.

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The Tiki 30 engine well is close to the water, does it splash?

The engine well on the Tiki 30 is simple and we don't think there is a problem with it splashing. On the Tiki 30 there isn't the suitable space for an engine bracket as there is on the Tiki 31.

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TIKI 31

Is the Tiki 31 suitable for a long journey/Cape Horn?

The Tiki 31, provided that it is well-built should be able to stand Cape Horn. Personally James and Hanneke would prefer a boat of a more substantial size than the Tiki 31 to undertake such a voyage. Although a much smaller boat can sometimes be safer, it often leaves the crew more exposed, which in those cold waters would be a problem. They would suggest a boat of at least 42ft.

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Can I omit crosseam 2 or 3 from the Tiki 31?

We do not think it is a good idea to leave beam 2 out, because of the spacing apart of the beams - it would leave too little support between the hulls in the front part of the boat. If any beam is left out it would have to be Beam 3, but even then we would recommend having a shorter beam here from inner gunnel to inner gunnel, to support the platforms, rather like on the Tiki 38 (you can see her layout in the Design Book) and also the second mast if you want to keep the original rig.

The crossbeams of the Tiki 31 are quite a good size so I don't think you need to add to their size (to make the beams stronger one should add to the thickness of the top and bottom flanges, you could add 10-15 mm extra in total thickness). However you may like to add an aft netting beam like on the Tiki 38. This beam, which is circular, is the same diameter as the mast and can also be made the same way, or else an aluminium tube can be used. This beam is lashed into semi circular sockets cut in the stern heads and pinned to stop it sliding around.

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Can I use Tiki 30-style webbing straps on the Tiki 31?

The webbing straps on the Tiki 30 were introduced to get a very speedy way of assembling the boat, so it could help with easy trailering. For ocean going use I don't know if it is the best way - rope lashings have certainly proven themselves there. You probably know there is a fleet of Tiki 30s on Lake Kariba (Zimbabwe) using the webbing straps. The advantage of the lashings is that they run around a block on the side of the hull creating only shear stresses on the glue joints and fastenings. The straps, because of their width, have to run through blocks ON the decks, which are then fastened down into the hull below decks. This is a slightly more complex construction and the forces are of a more difficult nature, though our solution to this is certainly strong enough - we use 50mm wide webbing and stainless over-centre buckles, rather like on the canvas sides of trucks.

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TIKI 38

Can I cut the tiller bars shorter on the Tiki 38?

Yes you can cut the tillers off. The reason they are kept long is that if you ever want to steer with them instead of the wheel (like in case of a broken steering line) they give better leverage than short tillers.

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Can I build the Tiki 38 in strip plank?

James and Hanneke see no problem building the Tiki 38 in strip planking. Strip planking of appropriate thickness with sufficient fibreglass on the outside should be OK. You will need some stringers on the inside to fit floors, bunks and shelves on, so consider carefully how many of these you really need to remove - just the ones in open areas to get a clean look. Once you have the Plans you will get a better idea of what you can and can't do, where the strengthening is in the hulls etc.

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Can I increase performance of the Tiki 38 by increasing beam and sail area?

If you increase the beam of a TIKI 38 by 2 feet and its sail area by 25%, you will have changed the 'nature' of the design. The TIKI 38 in its vital statistics figures can be classed as a 'Performance Catamaran'. Increase its beam and sail area 20-25% and it then has the statistics of a 'Racing Catamaran'. They carry higher stresses and capsize in force 5 wind gusts. Increasing the beam by 2 feet also requires a number of design changes to compensate for seriously increased stresses.

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What is the rake of the Tiki 38 masts?

The two masts do have a slightly different rake, the actual rake is written on the sailplan. The foremast does have more rake.

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TIKI 46

Is the Tiki 46 suitable for single handed sailing?

Yes, it is possible to sail the Tiki 46 on your own. All our boats can be sailed by one person but they might need small adjustments to the sails and rigging. Have you purchased a Tiki 46 Study Plan yet? This is the first step before buying the building plans. They give a good "taste" of what is on offer.

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What is the purpose of the chine in the Tiki 46 hull?

There is a chine in the hull, it increases hullwidth at bunk level and will deflect waves. It also makes building the hulls much easier, as access to the lower hull is much easier during building, saving building time. So eliminating this chine is not an advantage.

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Is it possible to change the hull curvature of the Tiki 46?

One of our builders did increase hull curvature a little as this was possible with the double diagonal building method he was using. The boat is, however, designed for building in plywood which does not allow this increase in hull curvature. Building in plywood is quicker and easier. This particular builder only chose the cold moulded method because he had a lot of cedar veneer in stock which he wanted to use up. There was no major change in hull lines just a small increase in hull curvature, which will not have any significant effect on the sailing performance.

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Can I make modifications to the Tiki 46 to suit cold weather sailing?

I do think the Tiki 46 will make a good cold weather boat. The hulls have standing headroom throughout; you can make the starboard hull so it can be entered through one hatch only, rather like the port hull. This leaves finding a solution to entering the hulls dry from the cockpit/deckpod. I don't feel it is necessary to connect the hulls rigidly to achieve this, I would strongly advise against this. I think some sort of little wings can be designed over the hull entry hatches that then connect flexibly to the deckpod or covered in cockpit.

The interior of the Tiki 46 is large and if suitably insulated can be kept warm, it will make a very comfortable living space. Two people living on it might not even find a need to use the other hull! The cockpit with its rigidly fitted awning roof can have sides fitted that will make it into a good dry entry porch, a place for wet clothes etc. when in harbour, and when sailing will be a dry pilot house. The deckpod is also of fair size and can be fitted with a transparent dome over the hatch so the helmsman can keep watch from inside here. A second steering wheel can be fitted inside, back to back with the outside, cockpit wheel. (This is what the prototype builders here in UK are planning to do.)

So to sum up, I don't think the Tiki 46 needs any major design changes to make her suitable for cold weather sailing.

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Why do you prefer the Tiki Rig to a Bermudan Rig for the Tiki 46?

The TIKI 46 is rigged with two Wharram developed 'TIKI Sails' (Soft Wing Sails, not ordinary gaff sails) which have been developed for practical use, on concepts first put forward in 'The Aero-Hydrodynamics of Sailing by C.A. Marchaj.

C.A. Marchaj, at a Sail Design Symposium in Bristol in the late 1970s stated:

The Bermudan triangular sail is not a good theoretical profile. The top section of the sail does not work efficiently unless great tension is applied, a better profile would be a Spitfire or Messerschmidt wing shape.
Twist and camber should be easily controlled.
Most important, turbulence over the leading edge of the sail from mast and rigging should be drastically reduced.

It took us three years of experimentation and working with the sail maker Jeckells to come up with a practical solution.

We took the High Aspect Ratio Dutch short gaff sail as the profile, and then developed a practical wrap- around-the-mast sail (this has been tried before, notably with the Gary Hoyt 'Freedom Rig', but on this Bermudan headed rig it suffered from jamming and was abandoned). The TIKI sail when used on a TIKI 26 racing, was equal in performance to a fully battened Bermudan sail with 10% extra sail area.

Our experience with a two-masted TIKI rig on our PAHI 63 around the world voyage was, that it is possible to hoist, lower and reef the sails running before a gale and that no significant wear occurred on the pockets over 30,000 sailing miles. When new, it was, in practical testing, in windward ability equal to a 50-60ft. Bermudan rigged 'Swan' design.

Since the TIKI rig has been on the market, you will note the increasing use of a big batten like a short gaff at the head of the sail on other cruising multihull sail rigs. Please do not think of the TIKI rig with prejudice as a 'Gaff Rig'.

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Can I use a single-masted rig on the Tiki 46 instead of a schooner rig?

A single masted rig on the Tiki 38 is a lot smaller than a suitable single masted rig on the Tiki 46; the mainsail on such a rig would have to be of similar size to the mainsails on the Pahi 63. I think such a larger sail does become harder to handle, particularly for just 2 people, like trying to reef it in a gale. For comfortable cruising I would still recommend the schooner rig.

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Is it possible to disassemble the Tiki 46 for overland transport?

Yes, it is possible, not some something we would suggest you try very often. In other words, it is possible but VERY HARD WORK!

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ETHNIC DESIGNS

MELANESIA OUTRIGGER

What is the difference between the three Melanesia versions?

There are basically two versions of the Melanesia, one for paddling, with a narrower centre-to-centre beam, and no mast or sail, and a sailing version, whith instructions for making a crab-claw sail. Apart from the obvious difference between the sail and paddle versions, the beam is a little wider on the sail version. The third option gives instructions for both versions.

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Is a lot of skill needed to build a Melanesia?

The Melanesia is a small, simple boat, designed to introduce anyone to simple boat building techniques. They are of a very basic design and even those who have never picked up a hammer, chisel or saw before have been most successful. Indeed, all James Wharram's designs are for complete beginners to experienced builders. The instruction are clear and simple and we rarely have questions asked of us abaout the smaller of our designs.

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What is the Maximum Loading for a Melanesia?

The plans state that the max loading is around 100kg. In fact we have found that she will carry more weight. Obviously the freeboard will be a little less, but she certainly will carry the weight of two average people. Hanneke sailed the Melanesia many times with a friends of around 80kg, while she weight 63kg, no problem at all.

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The Melanesia has some timber to be sourced from the wild. What if I can't get it?

Timber for the crossbeams, spars and float are intended to be cut from the wild - the building instructions show you what to look for. If you cannot acquire your wood that way, we can provide you with details of timber dimensions to buy it from your local timber merchant. Contact our office at info@wharram.com for details.

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Can I build the Melanesia in foam core?

Building the Melanesia hull in foam core and glass in a possibility. We think the best way to do this would be to use the flat panel method. Lay up a panel 16ft X 4ft, the same size as the original two sheets of plywood, then cut out all the parts as for plywood and assemble it also in a similar way by filleting and glass taping the joints. You can glass both sides of the foam at the beginning, but perhaps it would be better to glass just one side. Put the glassed side on the inside when you assemble the hull, fillet and glass tape on the inside, then fair and glass the whole outside. You can use a foam thickness of 9-12mm, use a foam density standard for foam sandwich boats - I think a minimum of 5lbs/cuft. I would suggest you glass in some buoyancy compartments so your canoe will be unsinkable.

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Can I fit a transom to the Melanesia?

I do NOT recommend you add a transom to the canoe, but rather make